Up for breakfast at 8am, wolfed it down, got my board, ran to the sea.
The waves are big today so I thought great we're in for an awesome days surfing dude! But I soon realised it's so much more hard work. I caught 2 waves in the morning but the rest of the time I got completely wiped out, the sea taught me some tough lessons after yesterday's honeymoon! Bec joined us and came back out 20 minutes later with blood all over her face after her board smashed her nose. By the afternoon I had decided to announce my retirement from the international surf scene. I've had a good career, with many highs and lows but right now I feel like I need a rest and a beer. We'll see how it goes, maybe I'll feel the waves calling again one day...... tomorrow morning perhaps.......
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