Macc

magical

Monday 21st
Trekking Ghandruk to Dhampus
.............magical.....................................
After nearly 9 hours of walking we reached Dhampus on a quiet hill overlooking a valley with views of the mountains.  We arrived after walking the last few hours in the afternoon along a hilltop through what I described at the time as ancient enchanted forest.  Really quiet apart from chirping birds, cool air with beams of sunlight peeping through between the trees, hardly any other trekkers just the occasional villagers passing by carrying baskets, elves meandering between the trees and druids collecting herbs for their potions.......ok so I made that last bit up but there's a unique magical atmosphere about the place, I really wouldnt be surprised to see a unicorn wander past.
Began the day in Ghandruk walking down to the bottom of the steep valley past several millet farms.  We cross a river at the bottom then its a steep climb up the other side of the valley, its hard going and the hot sun has me sweating a lot and lagging behind a bit but Bec seems to finding it no problem.  Eventually reaching the top I'm relieved to hear the next hour or so will be flat or as Ram describes it "Nepali flat" which means not too steep.  Its a long winding ridge path across the side of a deep valley passing through stepped rice fields and traditional farms.  When we stop for our dal bhat for dinner its blazing sunshine with a cool breeze blowing through the valley from the mountains, 8172m high Mount Dhaulagiri is watching us everywhere we go, its never out of sight.
More steep hills into a more wooded area, the going is tough again and kind of follows down, cross bridge, up, down, cross bridge, up.  Its a bit more shaded though and around every corner is another amazing view so its not hard to keep motivated.  Next we pass through the magical forest as previously mentioned and arrive at Dhampus.  Last day of trek tomorrow but Ram has worked out an extended route for us so we can make the most of a good full day before heading back to Pokhara.

perfect day?

Saturday 19th
Trekking Ulleri to Ghorepani
It was freezing cold last night so I slept with all my clothes on including woolley hat and gloves so was pleasantly surprised to be able to have a hot shower this morning.  Started trekking at 8am, Sanne has joined us to walk today which is nice, its good getting to know someone with similar interests to us.  Walked through lots of forest today, love the forest especially wild unmanaged forest like this.  The trail takes us along high forested ridges, rocky waterfalls and river gorges, we pass occasional settlements where people are chopping wood, washing clothes and preparing crops.  We pass a large herd of goats being guided down the path, i somehow got boxed in as they passed whilst stood precariously on the edge of a steep drop, the goats scramble past and one of them decides to leap from a rock infront of me right over my head, its hoofs missing my head by centimetres!
By mid afternoon we reach Hotel Snowland lodge and whilst sat with Bec, Sanne and Ram in the warm sunshine enjoying a some mint tea we watch the clouds drift away to reveal snow topped mountain peaks.  We decide to climb Poon Hill to see the sunset, it takes about 45 minutes to the top taking us 3250 metres high and rewarding us with brilliant panoramic views of several of the worlds highest mountain peaks.  Its cold up there but really peaceful, the air is the freshest I've ever breathed and the scenery some of the most incredible I've ever seen.  We watch the sun go down painting the sky red behind a silhouette of trees and then race back down to the lodge to warm up with a big pot of mint tea.  We're sat right now around the chimney stove in the middle of the lodge keeping warm with the family who run the place.  Can the day get any more perfect? actually yes,  I forgot to mention the mesmerising night sky lit up with thousands and thousands of bright stars, its too cold to stay out for too long but I've never seen anything like it, no light pollution, no air pollution and no cloud tonight, i could stare up there wondering all night but my fingers, toes and other bits were going numb.